With me, plans can change on a whim... so wanting to escape the heat I took the RER to Denfert-Rochereau station and went to the Catacombs this morning. The catacombs were originally mines for clay, lime and gypsum 20m under the ground, further below the Metro and the sewerage and water systems.
This bit reminded me of Interview with the Vampire...
Bones everywhere
It became an ossuary when the cemeteries of Paris became too full during the time of the Plague, about 6 million skeletal remains were dug up and relocated to make way for new occupants. I walked down many many winding steps and walked through 1.7km (so the man who checks your bag for bones at the end of the tour told me... and he had some bones he'd confiscated from tourists including a whole skull, no respect!) of maquettes and stacked bones. Mostly you see the ends of the femurs, tibias, and skulls without teeth or the bottom jaw.
Bell subsidence
I thought it would be very spooky, but at parts I was fine wandering around without anyone else in sight. I think maybe it was the age of the bones, they looked too ancient to be personal any more. When I got too wigged out, I waiting until I could hear the German tourists behind me! Incredible.
Underground art... I don't know who was dedicated enough to stay down there that long, but it is interesting!
Next, I went to Les Halles to find a haberdashery shop called 'La Droguerie' which I found by googling 'Paris, buttons, ribbons'. This was an amazing shop, a treasure trove of lovely things and ideas including the most beautiful button necklaces and rings I've ever seen. I bought a small fortune's worth - 16 Euro - of antique buttons (some will come your way Neese!) to make into very special things. The shop assistant was so lovely, she was 'Japponaise' and didn't speak English, so with our mix of English, French and Japanese we got by and actually had a good conversation. She was very patient with me and brought out the boxes of buttons and even educated me about some, that this one was from the 60s and wooden, so I shouldn't get it wet or it would be spoilt, that others were Bakelite or metal with enamel. Magical, and so reverent with each one I felt like I was buying a jewel.
Mokuba the ribbon store was much more intimidating, basically it was like a jeweller's shop in a posh area to me, but I bought a tiny amount of velvet ribbon to turn into a treasure along with the buttons.
I will sign off here to go have something to eat before I head out to Montmatre for a tour. It's very addictive having free internet in the foyer of the Absolute Paris hostel.
Mum, tell me about Ancenis please? What and where?
4 comments:
Again, wish I was there. The catacomb is calling me... ;).
The Neese will be waiting with anticipation. To think some of those buttons are as ancient as me!
Have fun in Monmartre when you get there. Some of those artists (esp those in Italy) are so good at drawing portraits while you pose. Take care.
Yay, buttons and bones! Thank you for saving me some. Once you go button hunting they'll call you wherever you go.
Have you found mum's puckering lotto granny yet?
HEY!! those puckering grannies ain't mine!!
Ancenis is the home of Manitou BF if you want to look up Henri Gallard or Manira. His house is in St Laurent des Autel (St Laurent on the altar), a little village near Ancenis. The town is south-west of Paris; ie, head towards Le Mans, Angers, and Ancenis is just before Nantes by the River Loire. Gosh, looking at the map of France, we had been through just about every town and city in the country! We did a lot of mileage.
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